• 30 Jun 2018

New Brunswick and the ‘starfished’ ACD

Hey, a lot has been going on since we waved Alana, Daniel and Sébastien –their eldest child– goodbye on 21 June. We had a laugh with him; he was going through his why phase. We paid a visit to Shediac and spent some time at the library. And we also took a picture of the giant lobster!

 

 

Then we headed towards Bouctouche, where we met Carmen and Pierre. We followed again the Acadian Coastal Drive or ‘Route du littoral acadien‘, which is easy to recognise thanks to the red panes with a white sea star.

 

We had been following roads of the ACD since we took the detour to PEI. However, we had not had the chance to speak much French until we met Carmen and Pierre. They not only allowed us to pitch our tent on their lawn as well but they also gave us some tips that made us change our initial route! And we even had a nice chat around a fire while it got dark and mosquitoes started to feast on us.

 

 

They explained the route we wanted to take from Miramichi to Edmunston was not a recommendable option to start leaving New Brunswick and then get into Québec. Most likely the people who suggested that were either not used to cycle or did not take a good look at Anacleta and FU.LA.NA! They told us to better take the 117 the road along the coast and then head North to Bathurst, then Campbellton and take the 132 after having gotten into Québec.

 

And this is how we changed our initial route again! This proves how important is to try to use those resources that get you to be in touch with either locals or people that know very well a particular region or even the whole country. The warmshowers network has not only given us the opportunity of having a place to sleep or pitch our tent but also allowed us to meet very nice people with extremely useful insights who have helped us to continue our adventure.

 

Say hello to Pierre!

 

Carmen and Pierre allowed us to stay a bit longer on 22 June, so we could have everything set before setting off on our newly redesigned route. That led us to Kouchibouguac National Park, where we decided to take a couple of days off and try to rest a bit while we kept on preparing the following days to come. However, one of those days turned into a 30 km loop in the park! It was quite relaxing but almost a 3-hour ride nonetheless.

 

 

On 25 June we got back on the saddle again and reached Sandy Point, near Baie-Sainte-Anne. We had been following very closely the weather forecast and for almost a week everywhere we looked and everybody who commented on it announced a cats and dogs day. We therefore covered us and our bags with our waterproof stuff… and we did not get one single drop! We felt a bit stupid but in the end we had a nice ride with a fair temperature on a road that had very seldom some shoulder we could use but not much traffic on it… so far so good then!

 

We finally reached Miramichi the day after. The day was way hotter than the previous one but we managed to cycle a bit more than 60 km. We enjoyed the first part of the journey until we left the 117 to take the highway and cross the bridge. The experience was quite thrilling!

 

 

We then got some supplies for the following days and could call it a day. We could even relax under the shade of a tree… that happened to have a boat next to it!

 

 

On 27 June we took the highway again and followed number 8 to Bathurst, where Meghan, Dustin and little Elliot allowed us to pitch our tent in their garden. It was a pretty tough ride because of the heat. We already knew that in advance and because of that we woke up at 5 am, so we could be on the road as soon as possible. We managed to get there quite early for our arrival standards. Thanks to that we could chat with Meghan and Dustin for a bit. They were very nice to us and gave us some tips, an amazing common feature among the warmshowers community!

 

We continued on the 134 the day after up to Jacquet River, in the Belledune area. As Dustin told us, it was just a steep climb to get out of Bathurst and then just a flat up to Jacquet River. It was a quite pleasant ride and the road went through all the small villages and communities along the Chaleur bay –and even had a wide shoulder!

 

Two days ago we managed to get to Campbellton, after a more demanding ride than the day before. The 134 became more hilly immediately before Durham Centre. It was not an extremely tough journey but the heat made it a bit more unpleasant for us, especially after the bridge at Eel River Bar and a couple of climbs to get to Dalhousie. Funny enough, it got a bit worse after a big, fat, strong shower while we were getting towards Point La Nim. Luckily, we could take cover at a gas station. We were able to resume some 20 minutes late, while the water on the road started evaporating as we cycled!

 

 

However, that was the most beautiful stretch of the day. The road goes not far from the water and you can see the Gaspésie on the opposite shore.

 

 

With that view still in mind, we entered Campbellton and as soon as we got by a supermarket, we had a second storm session. This one looked even worse but did not cool down the heat one single bit. After an almost 65 km ride we finally arrived at Christina and Alex’s place, a couple from the warmshowers community.

 

They were already preparing some burgers and offered us a cold beer upon arrival. We thought that was a gift from the gods but that night we slept on their futon. That meant the first time not sleeping in our tent since Charlottetown! And we also has very interesting chats with Christina and Alex as well as had fun with their children Samuel and Olivier. Oh, and we of course also received some very good tips to continue with our route!

 

So, that brings us to the last day of this long post: today –30 June– we left Campbellton quite early for our own standards. Our warmshowers hosts took part into an event of the Salmon Festival, so we left just shortly after them. Alex had told us the night before there was no point in crossing the bridge in Campbellton to follow the Boulevard Interprovincial. That was a terrific recommendation, since the views from the 134 and especially route 11 are just outstanding!

 

 

Shorlty after reaching Morrissey Rock Park, we finally arrived at the border with Québec. Once we crossed the bridge, we not only left New Brunswick behind but we also got an hour ‘back’ due to the time zone change! That called –very obviously– for a second breakfast.

 

 

Therefore, as soon as we entered Matapédia, we asked for some ‘directions’ at the information office and ended up having a delicious breakfast at Chez Casimir. In addition to that, the café happens to be next to a grocery store –or épicerie;– so we also took the chance to buy some more food for the following days.

 

 

We resumed our route and followed the 132, which is a ‘faux plat’ –yes, that is a false flat– up to Amqui. Carmen and Pierre told us that, the lady at the information office in Matapédia insisted on it and we could feel that in our lower bodies quite meaningfully after 40 something kilometres! However, the landscape, the views, the shoulder make this route a must see. Simply jaw dropping! You can only understand it by being there. No picture will make justice to such a beautiful place.

 

 

Tomorrow we will continue on the 132 and try to see a bit of Amqui. We might try to spend the night there or continue for some kilometres to Sayabec. Who knows! We will need to yet again decide on the saddle!

 

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